THUNG SALAENG LUANG NATIONAL PARK

In 1959, 14 important forests were proposed for inclusion in national parks, among them the once vast and malarial Thung Salaeng Luang. Eventually, in 1972, 1,262 square kilometers were declared the Thung Salaeng Luang National Park.

But from the late 1960's to the early 1980's the forest was used as a major base area and infiltration route for guerrillas of the outlawed Communist Party of Thailand (CPT). It was sealed off by the Thai military from even the park officials. One of the climatic showdowns of the war with Communist insurgents took place at nearby Khao Kor, where government forces defeated the guerrillas in a series of tough battles in 1981 and 1982, Khao Kor is now the site of a resort and community-based development projects.

Guerrillas have not been the park's only scourge. Other intruders were hill tribe people and squatters who make use of the Phitsanuloke-Lomsak highway running through the park's northern end to gain easy access to the area and stake claims to virgin terrain.

HABITAT:

Composing the park are hills of limestone, slate and hardpan between altitudes of 300 to 1,028 meters. A long north-south stretch of limestone hills runs down the western section of the park. Thung Salaeng Luang, the origin of numerous streams, is inlaid with meadows, especially in its southern area. Mixed species deciduous forest predominates, with lowland scrub and tropical broad-leaved evergreen covering smaller areas.

WILDLIFE:

Seventeen mammal species, including elephant, yellow-throated marten and masked palm civet, are confirmed as park dwellers. A significant number of others are possible residents. These include tiger, barking deer, wild dog, wild pig, languor and slow lorries. A 1987 study estimated that between five and 20 elephants survived in the park.

The best places to see wildlife are on the park's meadows and, during the dry season, around ponds and salt licks. there is a large salt lick at Pong Sai in the northwest and Pong Thung Phya in the southwest.

More than 190 bird species have been confirmed, among them species of heron, eagle, partridge, pheasant, pigeon, owl, swift,, barbet, woodpecker, bulbul, babbler, warbler, flycatcher and flowerpecker.

A prominent resident is the Siamese fireback pheasant, a leading candidate for Thailand's national bird because it was once so common and frequently referred to in classical Thai literature. it also once helped to advertise the country. A pair was sent to Napoleon III of France in 1862 along with diplomatic envoys, eliciting interest in both the exotic animal and its place of origin.

The sleek, handsome male has a red face, long, narrow tail, gray upper plumage and a black underside. the he is chestnut-reddish and lacks head and tail adamants.

PARK HIGHLIGHTS:

Three outstanding meadows are embedded within park boundaries. Thung Salaeng Luang is a 10 square kilometer sea of savanna grass in the southeast surrounded by forests and hills. Some of the meadow was turned into rice paddies by the Communist guerrillas. First-time visitors are often surprised to suddenly come upon such a great expanse of open space hemmed in by dense forests. the meadow's 800 meter elevation makes it comfortable for trekking even in the summer when temperatures average an agreeable 18 Celcius. But the ideal time for hiking to and exploring the meadows is during the early part of the cool season.

Thung Salaeng Luang is reached by two routes. there is 40 kilometer long trail running south from park headquarters to the meadow but it can only be negotiated by 4-Wheel drive vehicles and then only during the dry season. The other option is arriving via the Khao Kor-Phetchabun road which runs southeast of the park and turning off at Nong Mae Na. A gravel road leads to the park boundary and meadow.

Thung Nang Phaya, in the southwest, is a favorite camping site, known for its stunning combination of meadow and pine trees. It can most easily be reached from the Nong Mae Na entry to the park, with 4-Wheel drive cars recommended, especially during the rainy season.

Thung Non son is situated on a plateau deep in the park's center, its more tan 11,000 hectares resplendent with large clusters of flowers which bloom September to November. this meadow is best explored with guides since reaching it requires a difficult effort by 4-Wheel drive vehicle and facilities are non-existent at the site. From park headquarters, drive along the same road as leads to Thung Salaeng Luang for 15 kilometers until reaching a turn-off to the right. From there it is an 18 kilometer trek along a mountain ridge to Thung Non son.

Among the many lovely flowers found on the park's meadows is the “Bang meowing”, a small, frail orchid with sept-back petals which is literally translated as running horse orchid. Others are the “Phung Chomphu”, or pink garland, a purple flower with three large petals. Kradum Ngern, silver button, a white flower the size of the small finger, Yad Nam Khang, dripper of dew, a small, light brown flower which thrives on morning dew, and Mokhaw Mokaeng Ling, a greenish ground flower which loosely translates as monkey's pots and pans. Standard English names do not exist for a number of flowers found in Thailand.

Dubbed the “Niagara Falls of Thailand,” Kaeng Sopha is one of the country's most beautiful. the three-tiered waterfall, shaped like a stairway, is found very near kilometer 68 of the Phitsanuloke-Lomsak Highway. Food stalls, rest rooms and a tourist information center are located at the waterfall.

Three kilometers from the park office an 80 meter long cable stayed bridge spanning the Khek Yai River. the river banks are pleasant for picnics and the Khek Yai is ideal for dips in the dry season although dangerous during the rains when the current flows too rapidly

Getting There:

Phitsanuloke is a major transportation hub easily reached from Bangkok by train, bus, private car and air. From town travel along Highway 12 and watch for the park headquarters office on the right side at kilometer 80. The park can be reached by the same highway from Lomsak